HEALDSBURG, CA, August 18, 2003 - The Winegrowers of Dry Creek Valley hosted an Insider's Exploration of Dry Creek Valley, featuring a panel discussion at Quivira Vineyards on why Dry Creek Valley is the benchmark for Zinfandel. Panelists included Moderator George Christie, President of the Winegrowers of Dry Creek Valley and General Manager of Alderbrook Vineyards & Winery; Paul Draper, Winemaker and Chief Executive Officer, Ridge Vineyards; Fred Peterson, Owner and Winegrower, Peterson Winery and John Akeley, Manager of the Wine Department at Roberts of Woodside.

Zinfandel - California's unique contribution to the world of wine

"Zinfandel is California's unique contribution to the world of wine," began Paul Draper who has been at Ridge since 1969. "Although Ridge started as a Cabernet Sauvignon estate winery, the dearth of those grapes at the time, led us to focus on our old vine Zinfandels. We decided to treat Zinfandel with the same expense and care as Cabernet and believe that we have been part of a renaissance of Zinfandel, part of the quality that is represented in California and particularly in Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel. My experience is that Dry Creek Valley - vineyard for vineyard - produces more consistently high quality Zinfandel than any other single viticultural region."

As a result of Ridge's focus on Zinfandel, the winery has contributed to the recent research into the origins of this grape, which had come from the Hapsburg royal collection in Vienna to Long Island, New York in the 1820s. The collection included vines and trees from throughout the Austro-Hungarian Empire, which at the time also included Croatia. Beginning in the early 1970s, a process of discovery equal to a mystery novel, led researchers to southern Italy where it was scientifically proven in 1994 that the "look-alike" Primitivo was in fact Zinfandel; although there were still questions as to where the grape had originated.

In 1998, UC Davis professor Carole Meredith began to research the principal red wine grape of Croatia, Plavac Mali. She established that Zinfandel was one of its two genetic parents. Then, one Zinfandel vine was discovered and then eight more vines out of a planting of 6,000 vines in Croatia were found to be identical to Zinfandel. Just within the last year, on the Dalmatian Coast, researchers found another fifteen vines slightly further to the south that are genetically identical to Zinfandel but under an even older name. A wine made from this grape variety was popular throughout the Adriatic region as early as 1300 A. D. "The variety may have originated somewhere else, but for the last 700 to 800, perhaps 1,000 years, it has been growing in Croatia," said Draper. "The question is why isn't it grown there today to any degree?"

Draper went on to answer his own question, explaining that since Zinfandel is thin skinned, it does not grow well in a European climate with summer and fall rains. On the other hand, the California climate is ideal. "There are very few regions in the world where Zinfandel could thrive," he explained. "One is California, and Dry Creek Valley, in particular. Bordeaux established the standards and reputation for the Cabernet Sauvignon family of grapes. Burgundy has done the same for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. With Zinfandel, California has established those standards and that reputation."

Having made Ridge Zinfandel from Lytton Springs since 1972, Draper is in a unique position to evaluate the region. He also makes Zinfandels from many other appellations within California. "Consistently, this area, these soils and this climate have produced many of our very finest Zinfandels. For me, despite making all these other wines, when I think of a region that is ideally suited Dry Creek Valley is the one I think of."

The Gestalt of Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel

Continuing the discussion of why Dry Creek Valley is so special for Zinfandel was Fred Peterson. "I think it is not just one thing but a combination of factors that creates the Gestalt of Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel," said Peterson. "In my opinion, the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. Not only does Dry Creek Valley have the terrain, climate and soils conducive to growing great Zinfandel, it has the cultural heritage. Continuous cultivation of Zinfandel in Dry Creek Valley for more than125 years gives continuity and experiential wisdom," he said. "The vintners and growers here have a feel for growing Zinfandel. It is not something that you can learn from a textbook."

"In addition to being thin skinned," explained Peterson, "Zinfandel is fickle. It was selected early on for the Austro-Hungarian Imperial collection to be a table grape." This means that if the vines are grown on good soils, they produce large bunches, large berries and not much flavor or color. To achieve the desired color and flavor produced from small berries, Zinfandel has to be grown on well-drained, low fertility sites that are warm enough to fully ripen the grapes. "Most Dry Creek Valley producers are making classically structured Zinfandels, not alcoholic fruit bombs," he said. " Dry Creek Valley is warm enough to achieve optimum maturity, yet cool enough to retain good acidity, producing big yet balanced, complex wines."

Generally, the northern section of the valley is warmer than the southern end, as the fog burns off more quickly in the north. Peterson believes that the more northerly Zinfandel wines tend to be more aromatic, exhibit greater perfume in the nose, and usually don't have as much structure or "meat" as the wines from the southern end. From west to east, variations are due to elevations, exposures and soils. Commonly, poorer soils give smaller berries, lower pH and higher acidity. "I am a big believer in blending for complex Zinfandel, and the wines that I prefer are the field blends. The vineyard and vintage are the determinants for blending."

A Wine Merchant's Perspective

A final perspective on Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel was that of John Akeley, a dedicated and knowledgeable wine merchant with more than 20 years of experience. "The Zinfandels of Dry Creek Valley and their producers define not just the potential of the varietal but represent the very stewardship of classical ideals of great wine," said Akeley. "The current fashion in Zinfandel calls for wines of enormous fruit extract and monumental alcohol levels - super ripe, super rich, super extracted wines" he said. "This fad is reminiscent of the Chardonnay fad 20 years ago when fat, unctuous, over oaked and 100 percent malolactic wines were in vogue. For those of us who appreciate the gregarious nature of Zinfandel and yet require a wine to be complete, balanced and food-worthy, Dry Creek Valley is the protector and steward of the finest qualities Zinfandel can attain."

According to Akeley there are many independent, self-assured wine enthusiasts who can identify the great qualities of Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel wines. "While there is room and indeed a need for a variety in wine styles, for connoisseurs, Dry Creek Valley represents the embodiment of Zinfandel's true and highest ambition." In his opinion, Dry Creek Valley need not change or pander to the style of the moment, but must strive to improve upon what is already the benchmark for great Zinfandel. "The challenge of the future for Dry Creek Valley vintners and growers will be educating and exposing the unique qualities of the Dry Creek Valley Zinfandels, educating consumers as to what sets these wines apart from the rest."